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The aroma of Athens permeated all my senses as we made our way up the rubble-strewn paths trodden by the fathers of a once great civilisation. Does history really have a smell? Sand, dust and antiquity mingled with the aroma of souvlaki and the heady scent of Greek coffee ensured we could not be mistaken for being in any city other than Athens. Discover more in our Family Travel Guide to Athens.
Contents
Welcome To Athens!
Our son has been interested in Greek mythology ever since he started to read. Captivated by the heroic tales of adventure, gods and monsters, he devoured books on the subject and continues to do so until this day. We jumped at the chance to visit the legends’ own ‘hood and have him experience firsthand the very things he has been reading about all these years.
Discovering The City
Athens is an intriguing place where the ancient city is delicately embroidered into the modern. As a result, the city has many different faces. Yes it is chaotic, yes it can be unsafe at times, but it is a vibrant city alive with the throng of everyday life framed by the remains of its ancient past.
Food
Restaurants on roofs, cafes on pavements, balconies flush with overspilling geraniums and graffiti-decorated buildings remind us of the throbbing street life that lies at the heart of Athens. With a thriving food scene, children can delve into the delicious and healthy flavours of Greece. There is an abundance of fresh fruits and vegetables, delectable meats, exceptional olive oils along with scrumptious Greek yogurt on offer wherever you go. And don’t even get me started on the exquisite desserts, calling to us like the sirens did to Odysseus.
Be sure not to miss a visit to Little Kook, a fairytale cafe located in hip Psyri that children flock to during the day. Themes here change with the season and the atmosphere is stellar, making it an experience destination that will be forged in their memories long after they shed their childhood days. Our visit to Little Kook was during a Mary Poppins theme. We indulged in impossibly delectable ice cream sundaes and juicy concoctions that look straight out of a fairytale. Served by a woman dressed up as Mary Poppins, we sat under an outdoor canopy of colourful umbrellas under the watchful eyes of carousel horses.
History
Besides the plethora of activities and archaeological sights to visit, there is a tremendous amount of history to learn that will set them up for their GCSEs long before they are due. It is pretty incredible how a subject such as Classical Civilisation taught in a classroom can appear quite dry but come alive in a place like Athens. All it takes is a glance at the statue of a magnanimous character like Hadrian. All those exam questions about Roman contributions and influences to Greek culture become a piece of cake.
Culture
Athens offers bucket loads of culture and contemporary cool for children and adults with charming spots around every cornered you can discover some of these through our Family Travel Guide To Athens. No matter if you stay just a couple days or longer, Athens really is a must for everyone. To only give it a couple of days, though, is to do this once great civilisation an injustice. We recommend to stay longer. We promise you won’t be disappointed.
Best Time To Go
Make no mistake, Athens can get very hot! If bringing children, the summer months are best avoided as visits to archaeological sites can test the patience of any adult, let alone a child. Our first trip to Athens was in August (I know, insane right?) and we made a point of keeping visits short and arrive first thing in the morning to get the most out of the experiences. The plus side to visiting in August is that the city is empty as most residents in Athens escape to the islands.
There are two best times to visit Athens, spring and autumn. During the months of April and May and September through end of October, the weather is warm but not hot enough to be unbearable. There are also less crowds so visiting archaeological sights is a much more pleasant experience all around.
Travel Basics
Arriving in Athens
There are myriad ways to get to the centre of Athens and we explore some of these in our Family Travel Guide to Athens.
Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport is located approximately 35km away so if travelling by car, it shouldn’t take longer than 25 minutes. But this is Athens and there is traffic, so realistically you are looking at 45 minutes to one hour to reach the city centre!
Metro
The Metro is convenient and runs every 30 minutes to the centre. The cost at time of writing this article is 10 euro/adult and 5 euro/child one way. There is a reduced rate for a return ticket. A lift is available for those with luggage which leads to the platform (assuming it is working).
It is also possible to reach Piraeus Port via Metro but you will have to change at Monastiraki.
Athens Metro Map
Taxis
Athens Airport Taxis are the quickest and easiest way of getting to the centre of Athens. They are available for a flat rate of 38 euros daytime and 50 euros nightime with all applicable surcharges included. There is plenty of room for luggage and the driver can take you directly to your hotel. However please be aware that drivers are hesitant to take a family larger than 4 people so consider two taxis.
Follow the signs within the airport or step outdoors in the arrival area. There will be a queue of yellow taxis.
Pre-booked taxi pickups are also a convenient alternative. The driver will meet you in arrivals and escort you to the car. This service does cost extra but it may be something you want to take advantage of if you are travelling with a family or have a lot of luggage. For this service try Welcome Pickups.
Bus
An express bus offers a budget alternative and is the cheapest option of transport although it tends to be the slowest. There are four separate routes as follows: x95 Athens Airport Bus to Syntagma Square (ideal if staying in a hotel near the centre), the x96 Athens Airport to Piraeus Port (if you are catching a ferry to one of the islands), the x93 Athens Airport to Kifisos Avenue and the x97 Athens Airport to Elliniko.
You can purchase bus tickets at a little blue kiosk outside the arrivals area a little further down.
Helpful Tip:
Once on board, be sure to get a seat first and only then validate your ticket in the machine located in the middle of the bus. This will ensure you don’t end up standing the entire journey!
If arriving at the very busy Port of Piraeus, there are various options for getting to the centre of Athens. There is a shuttle available that will take you to the metro station. Also during the busy summer months, there is an express bus which connects the port to the centre.
Language
Greek is the official language although people speak English widely.
Currency
The currency in Athens is the euro.
Credit Cards & ATMs: ATMs are widely available and credit cards are accepted in nearly all hotels and restaurants.
Carrying some cash while travelling is always wise for small purchases or emergencies.
Tipping
In restaurants, the bill usually includes service charge. However, you can round up or say “keep the change” to be polite. Waiters do still rely on their tips so if you get exceptional service then do show your gratitude. If service charge is not included then a tip of 5-10% would be appropriate.
It is not necessary to tip in bars but you can offer to keep the change.
In taxis it is customary to round up the bill by a few euros. It is also acceptable to tell the driver to keep the change. If luggage is involved, the fare will already include handling luggage so no need to top extra for this.
In hotels, it is advisable to tip one or two euros per day for bag handling, housekeeping and concierge. This is if they have been particularly helpful.
Tour guides expect tips and you can base it on 10-15% of the tour price.
Family Safety
There are many opinions about safety in Athens but overall, the city is low risk. As in any large metropolis, be aware of pickpockets and be sure to keep your valuables safe.
TIP: Keep a colour photocopy of your passport.
Athens is a perfectly child-friendly destination and our children received a warm welcome wherever we went. However, families with pushchairs may find the city challenging depending on what activity they choose to do. Restaurants and pavements are small. There are also numerous hills and uneven steps to deal with in various neighbourhoods.
Educational Opportunities
History and Mythology
Visiting the cradle of civilisation is the closest thing to travelling in a time machine. Wind back the clocks and let your children’s imaginations run wild at the numerous archeological sites dotted in and around the city to include the Acropolis, the Theatre of Herodes Atticus, the Ancient Agora, Temples of Zeus, Poseidon and Hephaestus. The list is endless but with A Family Travel Guide to Athens, you will be able to see them all.
If your children enjoy art, they can create their own at the Ancient Agora workshop. A family expert accompanies children to the ancient Athenian sights to paint, create and learn. There is even a tour that includes a pottery workshop after a mythological walking tour.
Mythology reigns supreme in Athens. Don’t hold back on booking a specialist tour to give your children an experience they won’t soon forget. Encourage them to participate in a theatre workshop with an educational specialist in the ‘Become An Ancient Athenian” private family activity. They become an ancient Athenian for the day to participate in a child-friendly experiential game full of fun while learning about how the ancient Greeks lived in Athens, what they wore and even how the birth of democracy occurred. We immersed ourselves in a Percy Jackson mythology tour of the Acropolis.
Check out A Percy Jackson Inspired Adventure In Greece
for more ideas!
Archaeology and Geology
Learning about what it takes to discover and preserve the ancient monuments is fascinating for any child. It gives them a chance to feed their Indiana Jones dreams. No visit to Athens would be complete without experiencing the new Acropolis Museum and seeing the artefacts first-hand. There is much opportunity to learn what it takes to preserve these precious items of history. You can even visit the excavations underneath the Acropolis Museum or have a peak from the main entrance.
The National Archaeological Museum is another must-visit. It houses a remarkable collection of excavations from all over Greece that is sure to excite even the keenest explorers.
Culture
Greek culture is known the world over and it is even better to experience it firsthand. Be sure to catch any authentic cultural dancing or music which you can find for free on the streets of Athens. Be sure not to miss a performance at the Dora Stratou Dance Theatre, a living museum of Greek dance with performances held daily in an outdoor theatre. Reservations are not necessary as the theatre holds 860 seats, making it ideal for an impromptu visit.
Art
Seen enough of the ancient stuff? Athens has a pulsating art scene that gives it a very exciting modern edge.
Take time out to visit the Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation which showcases contemporary art in a 1920s mansion setting. Just opened in 2019, it is part of a £2.3 billion private art collection that is well worth a visit.
Urban Athens is famous for being a paradise for street art. Explore the age old question of “what is art” with your children along with the concept of graffiti by doing a walking tour through neighbourhoods such as Psirri, Thiseio, Gazi, Keramikos and Exarheia. Our Family Travel Guide to Athens will help you locate these unique neighbourhoods.
Sport
Teach your children everything about the Olympics with a visit to the Panathenaic Stadium where the first modern Olympic Games were held.
Our Family Travel Guide to Athens recommends if they still have some energy to burn then head over to the Zappeion. The first modern purpose-built Olympic building from the 19th Century is interesting to explore and allows them some physical exercise. Let them stretch some muscles or run the track like a champion in a workshop designed to teach children about the history of the original Olympics and how it was integrated into Greek society.
Neighbourhoods
Athens is a collection of colourful and lively neighbourhoods just waiting to be explored. Our Family Travel Guide to Athens provides a list of the ones closest to the city centre. Many of them feel like charming villages surrounded by streets with each one having an individual strong sense of community. If you are staying in any one of these, be sure to leave some time to explore the others!
Plaka
Better known as the heart of Athens, one of the oldest areas in Athens is located just below the Acropolis Hill. Being a very popular tourist area, it is packed with souvenir shops and restaurants. However don’t let that put you off as it is a wonderful place to get lost amongst the narrow back lanes and colourful houses, particularly Anafiotika. Built in the 19th century, this area is filled with charming whitewashed houses situated along streets that are really winding staircases. A real gem in the heart of the city.
Neighbourhood Highlights: Roman Agora, Tower of the Winds, Plaka Anafiotika, Choragic Monument of Lysicrates, Hellenic Children’s Museum along with a plethora of other cultural museums.
Metro Station: Monastiraki
Syntagma
This neighbourhood is the political centre of Athens with its lemon-yellow Greek parliament building sitting at the forefront of the area. Having been a royal palace until the mid 1800s, it is a very grand and imposing building made even more official with the Evzones changing of the guard ceremony which is conducted in front of the Monument to the Unknown Soldier by an elite military unit who serve as the Presidential Guard. The square is lined with banks, travel agencies and hotels but it is best to explore other areas for restaurants.
Neighbourhood Highlights: Syntagma Square, National Garden, Hellenic Parliament Building, Statue of Lord Byron, Zappeion Building, Third Ephorate of Ancient Antiquities, National War Museum.
Metro Station: Syntagma
Acropolis
The Acropolis neighbourhood is the immediate area surrounding the archaeological ruins, also known as Makrigianni. Specifically it is the paved region under the Acropolis which provides access to the areas small restaurants and tavernas which is an ideal place to catch a bite to eat after visiting the iconic landmark.
Neighbourhood Highlights: The Acropolis, Acropolis Museum, Theatre of Dionysus, The Temple of Asclepius, Erechtheion, Temple of Rome and Augustus amongst others.
Located between Syntagma Square and Thiseio.
Monastiraki
Picturesque narrow lanes crammed with traditional tavernas and a large flea market is what makes the area of Monastiraki special. Bustling with Athenians as well as tourists, this neighbourhood has a lively vibe that is accentuated by iconic landmarks such as the ruins of Hardian’s Library and the Ancient Agora.
Neighbourhood Highlights: Hadiran’s Library, Stoa of Attalos, Temple of Hephaestus, The Horologion of Andronikos Of Kyrrhos.
Metro Station: Monastiraki
Psyri
The best neightbourhood to stay in if you are after nightlife, as restaurants and bars here stay open late into the night. Streets are lined with intriguing taverns and endless independent shops selling unique merchandise. In addition, Psyri is a convenient location for visiting many of Athens’ landmarks. Located next to Thiseio, it makes an easy base for exploration.
Neighbourhood Highlights: Statue of Pericles, Church of Panaghia Kapnikarea, Iroon Square, Little Kook Cafe
Metro Station: Monastiraki
Exarcheia
An ideal area for visitors who want to live like locals, this coffee-culture neighbourhood enjoys a thriving art scene. Be sure to join one of the various graffiti tours in the vicinity to appreciate the art of the present and past.
Neighbourhood Highlights: National Archaeological Museum and Street Art Tours.
Located between Omonoia and Panepistimiou Avenue.
Thissio
This foodie paradise is located on the border of the historical centre. There are a plethora of restaurants and bars here, many of which are among the best the city has to offer. The close proximity to numerous historical sites is a major bonus of staying in this area.
Neighbourhood Highlights: Sanctuary of Zeus, Ancient Agora of Athens, Temple of Hephaestus, National Observatory of Athens, Odeon of Herodotus Atticus.
Metro Station: Thissio
Kolonaki
A charming neighbourhood with upmarket bars, you can experience nightlife along with easy access to landmarks, making this an excellent place to stay in Athens.
Neighbourhood Highlights: Hellenic Children’s Museum, Museum of Ancient Greek Technology, Museum of the History of Greek Costume, Museum of Cycladic Art, Byzantine and Christian Museum, Benaki Museum.
Metro Stations: Syntagma and Panepistimio
Recommended Reading
At Intelligent Journeys, we believe reading is a crucial aspect of educational travel. It sets the scene and invokes excitement in a child like nothing else can. There are a multitude of children’s books available on Greece and Greek myths but here are a few tried and tested recommendations in our Top 12 Greek Mythology Books for Kids. Ideally read them before visiting Athens to make your adventure more memorable.
While in Athens, pick up Discovering Athens by George Katselis which is sold at book shops and stands around the city. A charming book for children aged 3+, it tells the story of Athens through vivid illustrations and descriptions. It also makes for a lovely souvenir to take home.
If you’re looking for toys or games inspired by Ancient Greece, our Top 10 Greek Mythology Toys and Games for Kids is the ideal list.
Where To Eat
Athens is filled with lovely casual restaurants which are very child-friendly. Here are a few to get you started!
Bairactaris Taverna Central
Mitropoleos 71-88 Monastiraki Square
Located near the Ancient Agora of Athens, this charming taverna lays on a huge spread of traditional Greek food. Since 1879 this family run establishment has been offering Greek hospitality and delicious food. With tender gyro meat and succulent kebabs on the menu as well as its central location, you can’t go wrong. Although it has received mixed reviews, we have dined there and can honestly say whilst it is very busy, the food was absolutely delicious. It does come recommended by an Athens resident so it doesn’t get better than that!
Taverna Tou Psirri
12 Eschilou Psirri
A charming taverna said to be one of the oldest in Psirri. A great selection of delicious Greek food is on offer along with the most famous dishes you would expect to find in a Greek taverna. The dishes are cooked and prepared well with friendly service. Great for families looking for a relaxed evening out.
Dos Gardenias
Ivis 21
When you have had your fill of amazing Greek food and are looking for something different, look no further than Dos Gardenias. With skeleton murals, Virgin Mary icons and coloured tiles decorating the walls, this fun and buzzing place serves up tapas at the bar and mouth-watering paella.
Noel
Kolokotroni 59B, Monastiraki
For a special experience, head over to insta-famous Noel. Filled with wall-to-wall decorations, this place evokes a magical fairytale ambience that will not be forgotten. Offering a wide Mediterranean menu with dishes such as pizza and pasta to keep kids happy, it is definitely a must-visit while in Athens.
Where to Stay
Ava Hotel & Suites
This charming boutique hotel, winner of Travelers’ Choice and Trivago awards, is ideal for families. It is centrally located in Athens historical centre with views of the Acropolis offered from some of the rooms. There is plenty of space to play in family suites with kitchenettes that can sleep a family of 4. Learn more about Ava Hotel & Suites.
Athenaeum Intercontinental
A contemporary hotel offering family rooms and numerous hotel facilities such as outdoor pool, and PlayStations to rent. Centrally located with views of Parthenon. Learn more about Athenaeum Intercontinental.
Melia Athens
A lovely affordable hotel located in the centre of Athens with the Acropolis being approximately 2km away. Excellent facilities include an outdoor rooftop pool and babysitting services. The Executive Family Suites can fit a family of 4. Learn more about Melia Athens.
St George Lycabettus
One of the best luxury boutique hotels in Athens is ideal for families, offering a Kid’s Corner playroom, Saturday Lunch and Play events, Sunday Family Bruch, cooking classes and a kids theatre. Learn more about St. George Lycabettus.
Hotel Grande Bretagne
This grande dame of Athens, situated in Syntagma Square, is within walking distance of numerous historical sites. Boasting countless antiques and art masterpieces within its walls and a roof garden restaurant with spectacular views of the Acropolis makes this hotel a luxurious choice in the city. Children’s menus and amenities are available such as high chairs, potties and bed railings for toddlers, babysitting services as well as an indoor and outdoor pool. Family suites for a family of 5 are available. Learn more about Hotel Grande Bretagne.
King George
A Luxury Collection Hotel centrally located in Syntagma Square offering easy access to the Parthenon, Acropolis Hill, the New Acropolis Museum, and the Ancient Agora. Learn more about the King George.
Final Thoughts
Whatever the age of your children, Athens is an amazing place to visit as a family at any time of the year. They will see evidence of all Greek history – the good, the bad and the ugly. From the likes of Socrates and Plato, the Trojan War to the origin of the Olympics, it is all waiting for discovery and learning with our Family Travel Guide To Athens.
As the enticing aroma of Greek coffee wafts around me, I realise that Athens is a city that permeates all the senses. It forms deep impressions long after the spell of the city has worn off. History and modern life reach out beyond the pages of a book, committing to memory impressions rather than facts. We wonder if our son learned enough to pass any future GCSEs as we watch him re-enact a battle from the Peloponnesian War in the distance. That could just end up being a maybe.
We hope you have enjoyed our Family Travel Guide to Athens!
If you are tempted to get out and explore the islands,
read up on our Dreamy 8-Day Cyclades Sailing Adventure Part 1 and Part 2.
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